When restoring a Messerschmitt, many members will want to reproduce the original colour. This can usually be found by removing the windscreen or dome frame. If you suspect the lifting section may not be the original, further clues can be found by removing the wings and scraping away the paint normally not exposed to light. Few Messerschmitts have been through the kind of extensive restorations tackled in the last ten years and so many of these clues will remain. If you really do not want to restore the car to the original colour, or it has been assembled form parts of others, you should choose an original colour from those listed on the charts. Owners of pre-1957 cars will need to do extensive research as these are not included in the FMR chart. The excellent colour photographs in Jens Kron’s Scneewitchensarg book, (available from Partsmart), provide a valuable source of reference. Remember, the colour photographs provide only a clue to the colour because colour photographs from that era are not too reliable. It is also a fact that paint suppliers in that time did not have the sophisticated colour matching techniques that exist today. Therefore, shades can vary within the production run.

The paint codes and colours given have been matched to those on the FMR colour chart. As you can imagine, some colours (e.g. reds, whites, metallic blues, etc.) have a wide available range. Turquoise and rose are examples where there is less choice. This means we can achieve an excellent match on some colours but not on others. Where colours do not match exactly, the specific variation from standard is described. It should be remembered that these differences are relatively small and are difficult to detect.

If you choose one of these colours, make sure you give the body shop or paint supplier, all the relevant information given in the table. This is important as some car manufacturers such as Ford, re-use paint codes for different model years. The final code consisting of one letter and a four-digit number, is a Dupont colour mixing code and can be cross-referenced by other paint manufacturers. This will be particularly important if you choose Rose which has no references, but goes by the Isuzu name.

If you choose one of the colours that does not have a matching production colour, but would like to achieve a closer match, you should buy the Partsmart colour chart. Take the chart, together with the information from this article to your bodyshop or paint supplier. They can then mix the given colour adding an appropriate tint to match the colour on the Partsmart colour chart. However, it should be noted that the differences are very small and only you can decide if it is worth the extra cost, time, and trouble.

Finally, some comments on the selection of paints: Avoid using the cheapest paints if the finish is to last. The Messerschmitt does not usually require more than two litres of top-coat paint and therefore you can afford to buy the best. Glasurit’, Dupont’, and Churchill’s’ paints have all produced good results but all were ‘two pack’ and unsuitable for home spraying. Two pack paints contain known carcinogens such as Toluene and Xylene. There are also toxic substances, which build up in the bloodstream with prolonged use causing a slow and painful death! Special breathing apparatus and facemask must be used during spraying. Do not risk your health by using them, leave it to the professionals. The durable finish of two pack paints is worth the extra cost. It remains slightly soft and is more resistant to scratches, cracking, and atmospheric pollution.

If you are painting your Messerschmitt yourself, use one system for both primer and top coats. Some paints are incompatible and can react with each other with alarming consequences. Home spraying usually means using cellulose based paints and these require great care in preparation and multiple coats to achieve a good finish.

Many modern cars use a clearcoat or lacquer paint system. The pigmented layer of paint, whether a solid colour, metallic or pearlescent, is covered with a layer of clear paint to provide a higher gloss and a “deeper” look. It also offers a high degree of protection form fading due to pollution and sun exposure. This is why few metallic finish Messerschmitts survived the sixties without a re-spray ‘ usually in a non metallic colour. Any painted surface, even clearcoat, is vulnerable to scratches and oxidation. In the past, abrasive rubbing compound could be used to polish out these imperfections. Clearcoat is generally thinner but this depends on the amount applied. Using abrasives is more difficult and removing too much paint will leave the pigment layer exposed, necessitating a respray with more clearcoat. The recommended procedure for oxidation and haze is to use a chemical cleaner or cleaner wax. Light scratches can be buffed out with very mild polishing compound. Do not use rubbing compound on a clearcoat finish. Scratches that go through the clearcoat layer cannot be polished out, respray the entire panel.

A respray with thorough corrosion protection usually requires a total strip of the car. All trim is removed and the car should ideally be stripped of all parts. Removing the trim will save a substantial amount of money in bodyshop hourly rates. Advise the bodyshop where the trim holes are and ask them to avoid completely filling the holes. They can be opened up afterwards with a small drill while avoiding exposing the metal. The metal panels can then be sand blasted, (make sure you use a company experienced in blast cleaning cars ‘ industrial blasters will turn your car into metal lacework!) This will allow a thorough preparation using etch primer and other metal treatments. If you want to keep it original, the interior parts were painted in grey primer with just a light coat of mat black. However, there were many variations in this finish. It is much easier to paint everything the same colour but do not forget the exposed areas under the rear seat backrest need to be black to avoid a clash with the upholstery colour.

1958 to 1964

https://messerschmitt/?attachment_id=3020
Messerschmitt Original Colours Manufacturers reference / shade Dupont CODE
Polarweiss (polar white) Citroen – Peugeot 97-98 EWM Blanc Cygne F4892
Platingrau (platinum grey) Mazda 86-89 GY Cecile Grey H9005
Lichtblau (light blue) Fiat 85-86 485 Azzurro Chiaro N8684
Sonnengelb (sun yellow) VW/Audi 88-89 LY1A Ginstergelb H9053
Türkisgrün (Turkish Green) Nissan 85-86 450 Turquoise H8692
(Nissan colour is slightly more grey)

Rose Isuzu 89-90 Peach W9032
(FMR colour is slightly more brown)

Korallenrot (Coral Red) Fiat 95 590 Arancio F1416
Monzarot (Monza Red) Fiat 88-89 140 Rosso Corsa G9086

Metallic Colours
Aerosilber (Aero Silver) Skoda 90-94 9105 Saphirsilver met. L9997
Stratosilber (stratosilver) Citroen-Peugeot 97-98 KRV Vert Romarin met. F4964
Irisblau (Irisblue) VW/Audi 89-90 LAST/Y5 Mediumblau m. L9250
Stahlblau (steel blue) Ford 91-92 T.Deauville blue met. H9680
Graphit (graphite) Ferrari 89-95 906C Nero Mica met. F1785

When restoring a Messerschmitt, many members will want to reproduce the original colour. This can usually be found by removing the windscreen or dome frame. If you suspect the lifting section may not be the original, further clues can be found by removing the wings and scraping away the paint normally not exposed to light particularly the body tube under the aluminium kick plate by the door latch. All KR200s from this time have the cut-out for the radio and the blanking plate normally has some good paint unaffected by exposure to light and corrosion. Few Messerschmitts have been through the kind of extensive restorations tackled in the last ten years and so many of these clues will remain. If you really do not want to restore the car to the original colour, or it has been assembled form parts of others, you should choose an original colour from those listed on the charts. Owners of pre-1957 cars will need to do extensive research as these are not included in the FMR chart available from Partsmart. The excellent colour photographs in Jens Kron’s ‘Schneewitchensarg’ book, (now out of print), provide a valuable source of reference. Remember, the colour photographs provide only a clue to the colour because colour photographs from that era are not too reliable. It is also a fact that paint suppliers in that time did not have the sophisticated colour matching techniques that exist today. Therefore, shades can vary within the production run.

If you choose one of these colours, make sure you give the body shop or paint supplier, all the relevant information given in the table. This is important as some car manufacturers such as Ford, re-use paint codes for different model years. The final code consisting of one letter and a four-digit number, is a Dupont colour mixing code and can be cross-referenced by other paint manufacturers.

If you choose one of the colours but would like to achieve a closer match, you should take the information from this article to your bodyshop or paint supplier. They can then mix the given colour adding an appropriate tint to match the colour to your requirements. However, it should be noted that the differences are very small and only you can decide if it is worth the extra cost, time, and trouble.

Finally, some comments on the selection of paints: Avoid using the cheapest paints if the finish is to last. The Messerschmitt does not usually require more than two litres of top-coat paint and therefore you can afford to buy the best. Glasurit, Dupont, and Churchills paints have all produced good results but all were two pack and unsuitable for home spraying. Two pack paints contain known carcinogens such as Toluene and Xylene. There are also toxic substances, which build up in the bloodstream with prolonged use causing a slow and painful death! Special breathing apparatus and facemask must be used during spraying. Do not risk your health by using them, leave it to the professionals. The durable finish of two pack paints is worth the extra cost. It remains slightly soft and is more resistant to scratches, cracking, and atmospheric pollution.

MOC offers new back plates to suit SIBA contact breakers. These come complete with a new felt pad that should be lubricated with BOSCH grease, (available from Partsmart), to prolong the life of the Crankshaft cam and the contact breaker heel. BOSCH contacts have been unavailable as proprietary items for more than 20 years.

When setting the contact breakers, note that the time/position that the contact breakers open is the most critical part of the setting. The single lift cam has adequate time for re-charging the coil voltage at almost any gap setting. It is often not possible, (due to a worn cam), to set the gap to the correct specification together with the correct opening point. In this case, set gap as near as possible to the specification with the opening point at 4.5mm to 5.5mm before TDC. For the reverse timing, the gap is always a compromise, and adjusting the gap is the only way to achieve the correct opening point of 3mm to 4mm before TDC. The reason for this is that many cams are seriously worn from previous neglect of the felt pad and failure to use BOSCH grease. See articles in the Partsmart publication, “Karo-Tips”.

The following is a summary of the various contact breaker types, together with cost and fitting details:-

SIBA

Contact breakers originally fitted including a retaining clip for holding the coil wire as it passes through the clutch housing. Forward direction is marked ‘V’ (German – Vorn = forward). These are interchangeable with the reverse assembly marked ‘R’ (German – Rueckwarts=reverse). The R or V is upside down if the two types are transposed. This does not affect operation. The Black wire connects to ‘V’ on the right-hand set of contacts. The Red wire connects to ‘R’ on the left-hand set of contacts.

Part No. 279: Original Schier Kontakte part no:4681, Marked ‘V’ (forward) but may also be used in the reverse position. No longer available.

Replacement back plate for SIBA contact breakers, complete with new felt pad. Accepts original contacts above or the cheaper Villiers engine type listed below.

Part No 280: Siba backplate – Available from Partsmart

Bosch

Contact breakers originally fitted including a retaining clip for holding the coil wire as it passes through the clutch housing. Forward direction is marked ‘V’. These are not interchangeable between forward and reverse. Reverse direction is marked ‘R’. New BOSCH mounting plates are not available. If your contact breakers are worn out, you should convert to SIBA type with a new backplate.

Part No 278: Original Schier Kontakte part no:2162, Bosch part no: ZKT 72Z4Z forwards. No Longer available

Part No 281: Original Schier Kontakte part no: 2163, Bosch part no: ZKT 72Z5Z reverse. No Longer available

Alternative, – non original parts: SIBA

Contact breaker assembly as used in British Villiers engine. These are interchangeable with the reverse assembly. The forward assembly is fitted with a black cable and the reverse is fitted with a red cable. To fit these to a SACHS engine it is necessary to shorten the cable and connect to the appropriate wire using an insulated connector block, (not supplied). There is ample space within the contact breaker cover to fit the connectors. These contact breakers can be used with the above SIBA backplate, (Pt. No 280), to convert a BOSCH contact system to SIBA.

Part No 277: SIBA contact breaker assembly, (Villiers Type), state forward or reverse, available from MOC.

Ignition unit – inductive discharge – retains existing contact breakers

Worn contact breakers can be used almost indefinitely by using these systems as the contacts become a simple switch with no significant power flowing. See: Link to external site

Electronic Ignition Systems

There were 3 suppliers in Germany for electronic ignition systems for KR200; Steini-KTZ, Pukes, and a third one with programmable advance features. The systems are fully integrated into the existing contact breaker housing and an impulse rotor is attached to the crankshaft. The two existing wires and the engine ground are used as control and supply for the unit. Reversing system operates as before as the impulse sensor is timed exactly for the opposite direction of rotation. This is not a cheap solution but the spark is improved with more reliable running. A significant advantage is the easy replacement of the original contacts in case of failure on the road. For a compact unit that fits in the contact breaker housing check this website.

With most cars having had their engines rebuilt using a steel con rod and a needle roller small end bearing, the ‘correct’ oil ratio is now debatable, as this configuration has not been put through endurance testing to establish a revised petrol to oil ratio.

The lubrication required by the needle roller small end bearing is much less than for the phosphor bronze bush. An experienced member has reported that after using a 40:1mixture for 40000 miles with a steel conrod and needle roller small end bearing, he found no measurable wear on either the big end or small end bearings, or indeed on the main bearings. During this mileage the cheapest mineral two stroke oil was used. Continuing to use a 25:1 ratio will be completely safe.

Incorrect adjustment of the neutral selector can cause gears to jump out of the selected position. Many owners spend a lot of time investigating the neutral selector when the cause of jumping gears lies elsewhere. While jumping fourth gear is common, it is not common for the other gears to jump out of their selected positions into the adjacent neutral point. If this happens, double check the oil level in the gearbox. If the problem persists, disconnect the neutral finder completely, then drive the car to see if the defect has been eliminated.

The workshop manual does not cover setting of the neutral selector in any detail. Although, surprisingly, it is covered quite well in the Owners manual. A Sachs technical bulletin is available on our website giving their version from the early days of Messerschmitts. Located behind the clutch drum, it is a very simple lever system made out of pressed and riveted components. With the selector quadrant and detent arm finally assembled, you might like to check the movement and clearance position of the neutral finder IN EACH OF THE GEARS. There is good reason to take extra care in the setting of this device. To identify the travel of the operating arm, I made up a brazing rod neutral finder cable that I could use to operate the mechanism, and carefully measured the distance between the inner boss of the cable mount on the crankcase and the end of the cable carrier on the neutral finder

To complete the measurements, I used a vernier calliper, and the arrangement is shown in diagram 3. Firstly, I found the contact position of the neutral finder cam with the neutral finder quadrant and measured the distance between the two points for each of the gear positions 1st trough 4th. Next, I measured the distance between the same two reference points once the quadrant had ‘just’ been knocked back into neutral by pulling on my brass rod. I noticed that the clearance positions of my neutral finder varied by about 2mm, and the ‘knock back’ positions by about 1 mm more. (And my components didn’t appear to be worn!)

Although these variations in movement seem very small, let me remind you that, particularly in 4th even slight movement of the neutral finder arm, once contact with its cam has been made, will force the selector quadrant out of it’s full detent position. That starts to disengage the dog clutch! That 1 mm you have questioned is more than enough to move the 4th gear dog clutch half out of engagement. (This may well be one of the reasons for wear on the dog clutches and premature jumping out of gear)! I think that the total cable movement I can get with my neutral finder trigger on the gear lever is 11mm! and 2mm in 11mm is almost 20%! The message I wish to impart is that adjustment of the neutral finder cable is sensitive, AND CRITICAL!

Using this method to set up the trigger mechanism will make it very easy to set when you finally do get the engine back in the car. Couple up the neutral finder cable, and adjustment is really dead easy. You just make the distance between your two reference points, the inner boss on the crankcase and the end of the cable carrier on the neutral finder arm, slightly (say about 1mm) MORE than the MAXIMUM length of the neutral finder clearance distance in any of the gears, and you then KNOW that the Neutral finder mechanism can’t be interfering with the detent mechanism. (Hint, you can always make up a bit of stick the right length and use it during cable adjustment!)

The total variation in the clearance position of my Neutral Finder was about 2mm. If the variation exceeds 2mm you may find that you need to ‘massage’ the finder cam slightly to get the finder to work in all gears. I have not had to do that, but the design of pressed and riveted construction cannot be particularly accurate. It may be a further potential original cause of gear jumping if these distances vary wildly, causing the neutral finder to force the detents out of full engagement in some gears, when apparently properly adjusted in others. If you need to do this – be careful – the geometry has a high mechanical gain, and a little metal removed will have a lot of clearance effect.

Good lubrication is vital part in preventing gearbox wear. If the clutch inspection cover is used as the oil level, you can be certain that there will always be sufficient oil. Oil should start to run out of the cover when it is removed on level ground and normally about 800ml of SAE 90 gear oil is required for a complete oil change. If the oil level is too low, the first clue is often jumping gears. If you have a worn gearbox, things can be improved by using a SAE 140 oil and I have also had good results from 85W140 multigrade oil from Wal-Mart stores in the USA. There are many oils available today that are marketed for use with limited slip differentials. Many of these have ‘clutch’ plates similar to the Sachs design. These higher viscosity oils are often used in agricultural applications and you should try your nearest tractor dealer in case of difficulty. However, it is essential that these gearbox lubricants are compatible with friction clutches running in oil and you are usually safe with oils marked for limited slip differential use. Lubricants marked as EP or Hypoid that do not mention compatibility with limited slip differentials, will destroy the clutch. If you have a worn and excessively noisy gearbox, try using 140 grade oil that is intended for steering boxes. This works well and I have used it for over 30 years. There is no noticeable difference in operation unless you use your Messerschmitt at very low (freezing) temperatures when it can create some clutch drag during a cold start.

Unfortunately, there were some errors in the engine manual that resulted in use of the level plug on the clutch housing to determine the oil level. This level may have been acceptable when used in motorcycle applications where the engine has less weight to pull and less heat from the clutch operation. Do not touch this level screw! It normally strips when removed and you will have to remove the entire clutch housing to repair it.

In the KR200, the clutch housing and primary chain operates as an oil pump to feed oil back into the gears through an ingeniously designed duct system. Oil is picked up by the chain and thrown off by centrifugal force into the gearbox feed duct. This can only work effectively if there is enough oil in the gearbox. Check the parts manual and make sure your engine has the oil thrower ring and diverter casting in position. This is often damaged when the primary chain is badly worn and makes contact with the aluminium diverter casting. Some previous owner may have left this part off following an overhaul. It does not affect the operation of the gearbox but does limit the effectiveness of the lubrication.

Take great care if there is a strong smell of fuel in the gear oil. In this case it is possible that a leak has developed from the crankcase area. Normally this is accompanied by a very smoky exhaust but should be treated with caution as the gear oil becomes diluted with fuel reducing the lubricating properties. If in doubt, change the oil and check again later.

You will have noticed some wear on the six holes in the double sliding gear that are entered by the pins on the corresponding fourth gear wheel . The Partsmart #1807 engine manual compiled by Robert Soditus covers treatment of this defect. The design of the selector mechanism does not allow much compensation for wear in the respective gear drive dogs. If any of the gears are running on the edge of the drive dog, instead of being fully engaged, then the affected gear will be more susceptible to jumping out of mesh. Adjustment and wear compensation for the selector system was fully discussed in the August 2003 edition of Kabinews. This article is now available on our website.

Good lubrication is vital part in preventing gearbox wear. If the clutch inspection cover is used as the oil level, you can be certain that there will always be sufficient oil. Oil should start to run out of the cover when it is removed on level ground and normally about 800ml of SAE 90 gear oil is required for a complete oil change. If the oil level is too low, the first clue is often jumping gears. If you have a worn gearbox, things can be improved by using a SAE 140 oil and I have also had good results from 85W140 multigrade oil from Wal-Mart stores in the USA. There are many oils available today that are marketed for use with limited slip differentials. Many of these have ‘clutch’ plates similar to the Sachs design. These higher viscosity oils are often used in agricultural applications and you should try your nearest tractor dealer in case of difficulty. However, it is essential that these gearbox lubricants are compatible with friction clutches running in oil and you are usually safe with oils marked for limited slip differential use. Lubricants marked as EP or Hypoid that do not mention compatibility with limited slip differentials, will destroy the clutch.

Unfortunately, there were some errors in the engine manual that resulted in use of the level plug on the clutch housing to determine the oil level. This level may have been acceptable when used in motorcycle applications where the engine has less weight to pull and less heat from the clutch operation. Do not touch this level screw! It normally strips when removed and you will have to remove the entire clutch housing to repair it.

In the KR200, the clutch housing and primary chain operates as an oil pump to feed oil back into the gears through an ingeniously designed duct system. Oil is picked up by the chain and thrown off by centrifugal force into the gearbox feed duct. This can only work effectively if there is enough oil in the gearbox. Check the parts manual and make sure your engine has the oil thrower ring and diverter casting in position. This is often damaged when the primary chain is badly worn and makes contact with the aluminium diverter casting. Some previous owner may have left this part off following an overhaul. It does not affect the operation of the gearbox but does limit the effectiveness of the lubrication.

Take great care if there is a strong smell of fuel in the gear oil. In this case it is possible that a leak has developed from the crankcase area. Normally this is accompanied by a very smoky exhaust but should be treated with caution as the gear oil becomes diluted with fuel reducing the lubricating properties. If in doubt, change the oil and check again later.

You will have noticed some wear on the six holes in the double sliding gear that are entered by the pins on the corresponding fourth gear wheel . The Partsmart #1807 engine manual compiled by Robert Soditus covers treatment of this defect. The design of the selector mechanism does not allow much compensation for wear in the respective gear drive dogs. If any of the gears are running on the edge of the drive dog, instead of being fully engaged, then the affected gear will be more susceptible to jumping out of mesh. Adjustment and wear compensation for the selector system was fully discussed in the August 2003 edition of Kabinews. This article is now available on our website.

Once dismantled (with the aid of a 2lb engineering hammer!) and inspected, it turned out to be a can of worms. Some bits were wonderful, nearly new in fact. Others were simply destined for the dustbin. Crank, barrel, main bearings and dynastart were mint and perfect.

It had a nice new layshaft with perfect 1st gear and completely unworn dog clutches, the 1st and 4th constant mesh gears were really good (unworn), but the 2nd and 3rd gear fixed and sliding gears were a bit worn, but didn’t look too bad. The clutch plates and primary chain were consigned directly to the dustbin (from where I had to rescue one plate to make a clutch centre locking tool).

After completely dismantling the engine, all the gearbox parts and the engine casings should be thoroughly cleaned. This should reveal evidence of wear at the various contact points for the gears and dog clutch. I am not sure that I agree with all of the notes in the manual in this area, particularly the part about the shims (171) under the neutral selector! detent arm (170). My feeling here is that you should shim the detent arm first to ensure that you get the selector fork/quadrant (166) to give full engagement of both the 1st and 4th gear dog clutches (on gears 139 and 142) when the gearbox is assembled. If the engine has been operated with too few or too many shims fitted you will find a polish mark on either the face of the 1st constant mesh gear (139) or the sliding gear (138) where the quadrant has tried to force the flat faces of the one of the constant mesh and sliding gears into contact. Since the Quadrant has a fixed total sliding gear movement, you need to ensure that this is central and engages the dog clutches on these two constant mesh gears equally at the ends of its travel. I suspect that this is one of the primary causes of gearboxes jumping out of 1st or 4th with resultant 139 wear to the 138 dog clutches.

This adjustment is particularly important for top gear where the angle of the selector fork is large. A small movement in the arm can change the mesh of the 4th gear dogs significantly. This is one of the reasons why the end float on the shafts, particularly the output shaft, is important.

One trick seems to be to shim the output shaft to adjust the whole process further to aid centralisation of the whole assembly. I had excessive end float, about .O15 inch (0.4mm) too much. I was able to position the output shaft shims to help the engagement of the 4th gear dog clutches in relation to the end movement position of the sliding gear. These are the most important consideration in avoiding jumping out of 4th gear. Ideally, I would prefer to add see polish marks on BOTH the 1st here to constant mesh gear AND the 3rd gear correct face of the sliding gear!)

After cleaning, assemble all of the selector fork, detent and gears with the rollers in the timing side of the crankcase. Then check the 1st and 4th gear clearances between the sliding gear and the constant mesh gears. You may need to make a “keeper plate” to hold the drive side shaft end at the appropriate centre to do this, but it will also allow you to see how sensitive the 4th gear mesh is to movement in the quadrant and it’s position. Refer to the diagram for details of how to add and subtract shims for the correct adjustment.

I believe this is the primary adjustment to the gearbox, if you can’t get the core 1st and 4th gear dog clutch engagement right, I would suggest that the rest is doomed! It should be done before completing any other assembly work. This is also a completely different way of looking at the eccentric shims under the neutral finder! detent arm assembly. I think that building gearboxes starts with alignment of gear/dog clutch mesh, not with getting the selector assembly to centre. Eccentric shims are available from MOC partsmart.

High winds do blow it around and I find that when overtaking a lorry (truck for USA) or bus you do hit a bow wave as you draw alongside the cab, which can throw you off line. Cross-wind gusts are the worst thing and they can make a motorway (freeway) journey quite tiring as you have to stay very alert and are constantly correcting the steering. Having said this it is not dangerous and in fact there is no danger of the driver falling asleep, which I do sometimes find is a problem on a refined modern car. On the other hand the stability in terms of not tipping over on corners is extremely good for a three-wheeler – in fact the handling is quite sporting and I find it really fun to drive even after all these years. The best fun can be had in the wet when it is possible to make the tail slide a long way out of line but still maintain excellent control thanks to the direct steering. Conversely, I can also get it up on two wheels and drive in a circle in a large car park!

As far as extended road trips are concerned, probably the longest I’ve done is London to Munich which was completed in two stages. This was part of a two week continental tour covering 2500 miles. The longest mileage I’ve done in a day is 550. I did Calais (France) to Heidelberg (Germany) only last year in one day and that is about 440 miles. I find it quite comfortable thanks to the optional Tg500 seat fitted to my car. I have to say that I can’t bear the standard KR200 seat after more than two hours. Noise level is quite high although it helps a lot if you’ve stuffed the back full of sleeping bags, soft bags and a tent. Fuel economy is usually 55-60mpg but that is obtained driving flat out (i.e. maintaining 65mph on a level road). My engine is tuned up a bit with a high compression cylinder head and altered porting. I have achieved up to 80mpg on rare occasions.

There are no maintenance headaches. It is all very easy to work on thanks to easy access and mechanical simplicity. The most frequent job is adjusting the brakes, which are really too small and wear out quickly. Also the dynastart’s carbon brushes wear out every 10,000 miles or so and to change these it is necessary to take out the engine. Original crankshafts tend to blow up after 50,000 miles due to the big end bearing breaking up seizing and breaking the aluminium con rod. We can now use steel con rods with an improved bearing from a Yamaha motorcycle engine and these seem to be very reliable so far. Gearboxes can be a pain as there is an inherent tendency to jump out of top gear and this is very hard to resolve. New gears help and these are of course available now from the MOC in the UK. You do need some special tools for some jobs but these are all available from the MOC too. Parts availability is very good and I can get whatever I need posted to me by the MOC within 48 hours of making an order. The only parts of the design I would wish to see improved are the brakes and engine power. Hydraulic disc brakes and 20bhp would make all the difference. The Tg500 answers these problems but has some other drawbacks. It is not as nimble due to its greater weight and rear (i.e. behind the back axle) engine location and suffers from an appallingly slow gearchange.

Siba dynastarts have a red oxide colour paint finish. Bosch units are finished in lime green paint. An extractor is needed to pull off the flywheel (Available from MOC Partsmart). You can identify the dynastart type by reference to the terminal tag numbers. (refer to Siba and Bosch black box systems and note the terminal numbers). The picture shows a Siba dynastart system fitted to all KR200 models up to chassis number 70643 ? reported date of introduction 6th April 1959.

Siba Units Fault: Pigtail routed around brush holder so that the cable is rubbing against the segment Insulation is worn through by friction on the rotating segment connecting wires ? when contact with the cable is made, the resulting short circuit damages both the armature and the stator.

Preventive action: As above, take care that the terminal is fastened to keep the cable close to the brush holder and without twisting.

Fault: Two of the brushes are connected to a terminal post between them and the pigtail can be too long or twisted, causing the cable to rub against the segment. Insulation is worn through by friction on the rotating segment connecting wires ? when contact with the cable is made, the resulting short circuit damages both the armature and the stator.

Preventive action: Ideally, the cable should be just long enough to reach the terminal post thus avoiding contact with the rotating segment connecting wires. If the cable is too long, it should be cut to length and a new terminal soldered or crimped on. Note the brush wire routing as shown in the above photograph.

Bosch units

Pigtail routed around brush holder so that the cable is rubbing against outside of central hub. Insulation is worn through by friction on hub ? when contact with the cable is made, a dead short occurs that often destroys the armature connections to the commutator.

Preventive action: Fasten the terminal so that the cable is held closely to the brush holder while allowing the brush to move freely as it wears. (see attached diagram). Take care not to create a twist in the cable that may increase the chance of it contacting the commutator segment connection wires. These are 1.5mm thick varnish insulated copper wires.

2. Pigtail routed around brush holder so that the cable is rubbing against the segment Insulation is worn through by friction on the rotating segment connecting wires ? when contact with the cable is made, the resulting short circuit damages both the armature and the stator.

Preventive action: As above, take care that the terminal is fastened to keep the cable close to the brush holder and without twisting. Refer to the drawing above for brush wiring arrangement on BOSCH units.

Note that the carbon brushes should be inspected frequently and certainly at each engine removal. If the brushes wear down to the connecting pigtails, and beyond, serious damage will occur to the commutator. In some cases, they can be restored by turning on a lathe but normally this can be done once only. In each case, the clearance must be restored between each commutator segment. If you do not understand any of the techniques involved, leave the servicing to a specialist. Dynastart components are hard to find on the used market and often extremely expensive. Look after yours and it will last the life of the car!

Service life of the brushes is dependant on the following factors:

1. number and duration of starting operations
2. Correct set-up of the carbon brushes
3. Condition of the commutator, excessive wear on brush operating area
4. Oil leaks from the main bearing seals. This can create short circuits from the carbon/oil paste that will burn out the unit
5. Run-out and excessive end float on the crankshaft
6. Total hours run of the engine
7. Worn main bearings

Life of the brushes can be extended by avoiding use of the reversing feature. The reason for this is that the small lateral movement in the brushes causes them to wear with a slight taper on the operating face. When reverse operation is selected, the contact area is reduced and excessive wear can occur. This effect can be reduced by minimising the lateral movement in brush holder. Squeezing the holder sides in reduces the play. Of course, the brush must be able to move freely within the holder.

How to identify Bosch & Siba systems

Late in 1958, soon after FMR took over from RSM, a number of changes were made to the engines including a different crankshaft and dynastart system. If you have a Messerschmitt with FMR badges and vehicle identification number plate, then it was normally built with a BOSCH system. All cars with FMR diamond badges and plates were built with BOSCH electrical equipment. The U.K. has more BOSCH units than other countries because Messerschmitts were sold in here in greater numbers than other countries from 1959. Many have since had replacement engines from earlier cars and thus require identification of the dynastart for service work and repair parts. It should be noted that each type will function equally well in a car equipped with Bosch or Siba control boxes. There are only minor differences in the Black Box internal circuitry and these do not affect operation. Almost all terminal connections are dual marked for both systems ? you do not need to mark the cables before disconnection as each has the identifying code stamped on the rear of the terminal. Take care when replacing any worn or damaged terminal flags ? these are ?handed? left and right to avoid contact with the adjacent terminal post on the terminal block.

Removing the dynastart flywheel.

Do not attempt this job without the necessary holding tool for the flywheel unless an air wrench is available. Never try to stop rotation by jamming the fan blades (many have been ruined this way). The correct procedure is:

1. Remove engine from the car and place on workbench. If you have a vice, clamp the front engine mounting plate in the vice jaws with the silencer taking the weight at the rear.
2.  Remove the fan cover and fan.
3. Place the holding tool in the locating holes and slot in the outer casing (as shown in the manual.
4. If you do not have the holding tool, you can fabricate an anti rotation device from a strip of metal locating on the fan retaining screw holes. CAUTION: take great care not to fit longer screws into the fan retaining holes. If a screw is forced in too far, some of the commutator segments will be pushed out and the dynastart armature will be damaged beyond repair!
5. One alternative is to use an air operated power wrench when it is not normally necessary to use a locking device at all. (These wrenches are used in car tyre shops to remove wheel nuts. They exert great torque with a hammer blow action and will loosen the most stubborn nut without rotating the crankshaft).
6. After dismantling, clean everything as described in the manual. Replace brushes as required. Carefully inspect the key. If the key is loose and there is evidence that the flywheel/ armature has been moving on the shaft, you will need a replacement crankshaft. Note that the out of balance condition created by this fault is a major cause of low engine power output.
7. Inspect the keyway on the dyanastart flywheel bore. If there is evidence of movement, the same caution as above applies. (see note below about replacement flywheel hubs).
8. If all is well, carefully re-assemble ensuring the key is properly in place. Fit the spring washer before the crankshaft nut and tighten. Failure to tighten this nut sufficiently is a major cause of the damage described above. If you have a torque wrench, you can set it to 110Nm (81 il/ft). Alternatively, use an air wrench providing you are sure it is capable of maximum torque.

How to identify BOSCH and SIBA dynastart systems:-

BOSCH – The flywheel, (technically this is the armature), is painted a light green colour. A 5mm wide key is machined into the crankshaft to locate the flywheel and prevent it rotating on the crankshaft. The bore is machined to a taper of 7.5:1 to match the BOSCH type crankshaft. The internal diameter is slightly smaller than the SIBA unit, preventing use with a SIBA stator.

BOSCH stator or field coil assembly: Almost identical to the SIBA system but can be identified by the terminal connection markings on the main power leads: 92r, 92l, D+, 30h, & 31, Earlier SIBA codes (shown below) are also included on each terminal allowing connection to BOSCH or SIBA black box system. Brushes are smaller than SIBA and have different terminal size and geometry. Can be used with a SIBA flywheel and will fit a SIBA engine. Theoretically, performance will be slightly reduced because of the small increase in the air gap between flywheel and stator. In practice, these performance differences will not be noticed.

SIBA flywheels are painted light brown colour similar to red oxide primer. A 3mm wide key is machined into the crankshaft to locate the flywheel and prevent it rotating on the crankshaft. This key is a special rounded type and must not be replaced with a standard key. (Note that MOC exchange SIBA crankshafts have a standard type key). The bore is machined to a taper of 10:1 to match the SIBA type crankshaft. The internal diameter is slightly larger than the BOSCH unit, allowing use with a BOSCH stator.

SIBA – stator or field coil assembly: Almost identical to the BOSCH system but can be identified by the terminal connection markings on the main power leads: A,B1,B2, HE, M. Brushes are larger than BOSCH and have different terminal size and geometry. One pair of brushes is connected to a 4mm terminal stud post and fastened with a nut. Cannot be used with a BOSCH flywheel because the external diameter is too great.

How to identify BOSCH and SIBA black box control systems:-

The black box control system can be used with either type of dynastart system. BOSCH systems can be identified by the black cover on the votage regulator. Many BOSCH systems are worn out now and the contacts are flimsy and prone to failure and most have been replaced with the SIBA product from Partsmart. It is possible to replace a BOSCH regulator with a SIBA unit but the back plate must be drilled to accept the different hole centres and some cables will need to be extended. It is often more cost effective to buy a complete new box from Partsmart particularly as all the cables, regulator, and ignition coil are new.

New Dynastart hub assembly. These can be available separately (price on application), or your existing dynastart can be fitted with a new hub. This is a time consuming job requiring specialised equipment as each re-built assembly must be dynamically balanced to the original armature. It is normally only worth doing if the armature is in good condition and free of deep grooves in the commutator face. Note that this repair service is done in Germany and can take up to six months to complete. Cost varies according to the work involved but is typically around 130UKP. If your need is urgent, you will need to buy a new one as listed below.

1574 SIBA flywheel  This is a complete new flywheel dynamically balanced and ready for use. Identified by light brown colour paint similar to red oxide primer and narrow keyway to suit SIBA crankshaft. Does not include stator or field coil assembly. Because of the heavy and fragile nature of this part, postage is extra at cost.

1575 BOSCH flywheel  This is a complete new flywheel dynamically balanced and ready for use. Identified by yellow colour paint, (we could not find a match for the light green), and 5mm keyway to suit BOSCH crankshaft. Does not include stator or field coil assembly. Because of the heavy and fragile nature of this part, postage is extra at cost.

Repair of the stator or field coil assembly is a specialised job. If you feel you have the necessary skills, excellent repair and fault finding instructions, with pictures, are included in 1807 engine manual 5.50UKP from Partsmart. Alternatively, take this manual, with your defective stator to an electric motor repair shop.

Other useful publications are:

1821 Dynastart leaflet Siba
1822 Bosch Dynastart manual

Picture shows Sachs engine as fitted to KR200 viewed from output drive side (exhaust silencer not fitted). Also shown is SIBA black box control system as fitted to all KR200 models up to chassis number 70643, (reported date of introduction 6th April 1959, when it was superseded by the BOSCH control system. Black box systems are interchangeable and a BOSCH engine will work with a SIBA control and vice-versa.

Picture shows Sachs engine as fitted to various scooters viewed from output drive side (exhaust silencer not fitted and the chain wheel is hidden by the extended casing). Note that the SIBA voltage regulator is carried on the engine as is the ignition coil.

Sealants and ‘Liquid Gasket’ Materials – Whilst some silicone rubber sealant materials are superb for engine casing seals and similar applications, they give off acidic gasses as they cure. Although implicated in brush and commutator problems, they may also etch a metallic material that it is applied to. This can sometimes be advantageous, but it can also etch and corrode plated components. I believe that the blue silicone gasket referred to in the July 2001 issue of Kabinews, which has been implicated in the Messerschmitt Dynastart Brush problems, may well be of the acidic variety. Silicone gasket materials are physically difficult to remove from engine casing joints once cured, that’s why they seal so well! I personally have found the acidic based silicones very difficult to remove; The neutral curing ones less so, and indeed this makes it easier to separate a casing again without damage if required. In my work on industrial machine tools, in the absence of my preferred non silicone jointing compounds such as “Hylomar” and “Golden or Red Hermetite”, I will use the neutral curing variety on flanges where appropriate. However, as precaution, I would not use it in the presence of brush gear. Remember, if gaskets are omitted and a sealant of whatever type is being used in it’s place, the mating faces will have changed in dimensions. In cases such as close tolerance gearboxes where shimming for end floats have to be made, (as in the Sachs 200), this must be allowed for.

Acidic Cure Sealant – When curing, this material gives off a distinct smell of Acetic acid. It is often used for engine and bath sealants etc, but which due to the acid given off will etch metals and destroy plated parts, often leading to rust or corrosion etc. This type usually has a high modulus of elasticity. This type must not be used on building materials such as brick or limestone etc, as it will be likely to chemically eat the material it is supposed to be bonding and etch any metals etc, that the fumes can get to! This type of sealant usually warns the user on the container that acid fumes are released whilst curing; Take Note!

Neutral cure sealants – This is a neutral curing silicone, which in my experience, is less tough that the above acidic type. It does have a low modulus of elasticity, but still with good flexibility. It does not release of acid fumes whilst curing, and does not generally directly destroy anything it is in near contact with. I have also found it is easier to get off if required! It will yield good results in terms of sealing, but with little or no risk of metallic etching. Due to the neutral cure, this silicone family is often used in the electronics industry for potting, or for the protection of high voltage circuits to good effect This makes this type of silicone suitable for bonding to brick and stone work, sensitive metal surfaces such as the perspex dome frame.. I cannot comment on whether this type of silicone will also have adverse effects on brushes in Dynastart units, but if in doubt I would restrict it’s use for emergency clutch case sealing for example, which will be well away from the Dynastart.

Aerosols & Water repellents by definition contain small particles of semi atomised fluid in a carrier gas. Two examples being anti-damp spray for ignition systems and another in the form of the various silicone based polishes and interior trim cleaning / polishing products. Small particles can get into very small gaps, and once there if silicone, can “Creep”. Aerosols can also be drawn into air intakes such as the cooling fan on a Sachs engine, and hence onto / into the dynostart brush / flywheel contacts area. “Damp Start” solutions often contain silicone used as a water dispersant, and if this mist is drawn int a Dynostart unit, this may well lead contamination of the Dynostart leading to a reduction in brush life and damage as described in the recent “Carbon Brush Poison ” Article in Kabinews.

Silicone oils, polishes, once present on a surface, in a switch or Dynastart for example, cannot be cleaned by normal solvents. To remove silicone effectively, a specialised silicone digester must be used. In my industry where silicone mould release is used in the production of base belts, further chemical bonding will not be reliable unless such action is taken. Typically this will involve immersion in, (preferably agitated), digester fluid for some for some 24 hours or so to remove all traces of silicone. In the vehicle metal finishing areas, I believe that special silicone paint wipes are available for the removal of silicone polishes etc, prior to paint application.

Greases and compounds – These are often used for plug type cocks, spark plugs, and ball bearings which must operate at extreme temperatures and speeds, but with low loadings.

Varnishes – These are extensively used in electrical insulation where temperatures are high. Glass cloth impregnated with such resins will withstand prolonged exposure to temperatures up to 260 Deg C, whilst maintaining their insulating and encapsulation characteristics. Due to the age of an “original” Siba or Bosch Dynastart, it is most unlikely that a silicone based varnish has been used in the construction and insulation of the various coils involved. These products have only come into common use over the past 20 to 25 years, although I cannot confirm this; Prior to this “natural” varnishes were used, with a different chemical base, which are not as durable in the longer term. In the event of discovering a silicone infested Dynastart, or armature involving brushes, if possible, restrict the application of the silicone digester primarily to the brush / copper contact areas. This is a precaution just in case a silicone varnish has been used as a primary insulator on the wires of the coils, or as a secondary protective layer used for encapsulation purposes. Remember, the digester may inadvertently remove the insulation for you!

Note, silicone varnishes, unlike oils, polishes, greases etc, are designed for the job of encapsulating armature windings etc, and once cured by specific heat treatment, are very stable and long lived, and will not contaminate the brush gear to which they are attached !

Silicone polishes, fluids and aerosols have been shown when inadvertently applied to electrical and electronic equipment, to effectively make switch contacts inoperative; This effect being due to silicone’s excellent insulating properties even when present in a very fine film. For a switch, this is not very desirable, even if the contacts will be protected from corrosion and damp! The main culprit in the home environment is silicone based aerosol polishes which are very good at producing this effect and making equipment inoperative, as well as attracting dust due to the any static electricity that is held on it! Silicone Polishes are often used on vehicle paint finishes etc, where they give a good shine and disperse water magnificently.

Silicone fluids and greases, on smooth polished surfaces creep and climb over surfaces better than on rough ones. This problem has been demonstrated in the instrumentation systems used for pressure calibration of high stability pressure transducers in a laboratory, where silicone fluid has been used as a seal media.

Brake fluid is not an issue for most Schmitt owners where cable operation is standard. However, some Tg500 owners use silicone brake fluids in their vehicle’s hydraulic systems, to avoid the problems associated with standard DOT 3 and above brake fluids. (DOT = United States Department of Transportation – an approval authority). Standard DOT brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning that it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. I have been told this absorption can be typically up to 1% per year, to a max of 4 – 5% by volume. This introduces corrosion to the internals of a hydraulic system, lowering of the brake fluid boiling point. This can cause disc brake systems, (and sometimes drum brakes), to vapour lock due to boiling of the water. This normally occurs after repeated heavy use. For some vehicles, (such as 2 CV’s I believe), seals made of different materials must be fitted with to ensure leaks do not develop. For Tg owners, silicone brake fluid offers many advantages – particularly as many Tg’s have extended periods out of use. There is some doubt about the use of silicone brake fluid in competition applications because it has a slight compressibility whereas DOT 3 and higher rated fluids have zero compressibility. This may result in a slightly longer brake pedal travel. However the advantages of eliminating the corrosion risk are significant especially with the cast metal reservoir fitted to Tg. At least if silicone brake fluid is accidentally spilled on the paintwork of the car it will not strip it off !!

Silicone Rubbers – There are several types. Generally they are noted for their resiliency from -45 to 270 Deg C, but with a much lower strength than many synthetic rubbers. They are often used for shaft seals, oven gaskets, refrigerator gaskets, vacuum gaskets.

To sum up, Silicone based products are great, but take care how one uses them !